And Finally

We rose earlier than usual in order to complete the last remaining lock and arrive in good time at the boatyard. As there were more moored boats than usual - it was the Linslade Canal Festival - we were slower than expected but still managed to arrive at our final destination with ten minutes to spare.

Then came the frantic transfer of all our belongings from the boat to the car - the cleaners were already waiting to prepare the boat for the next hirers. There was panic when we realised that, compared with when we came, this time we had to leave room for Ellie. Although the upright part fo the rear seats is divided the seats are not, so it was a tight squeeze but eventually everything fitted in.

So it was time to bid farewell to Poppy - who had served us excellently for the past six weeks - and settle our account with Wyvern Shipping before going into Leighton Buzzard town centre for coffee and cakes.



We planned to have lunch on the way - Joanna and Adrian needed as much space before Ellie returned as their cleaner was ill on Friday and Adrian had also been redecorating her bedroom in her absence. Alas, Bicester Shopping Village failed to offer anything suitable so we pressed on to Summertown where Christine recalled a rather nice lunch place she had been to before. Alas, no more so we checked out the available options and it soon became clear that the ladies wanted a 'proper' lunch. Thus it was that we chose an Italian restaurant which provided us with excellent food, despite the somewhat off-putting maitre d'. Ellie says that the food is so good she will put it on her recommended list of places to go!

Andrew and Joanna were treating us to an evening at the Battle Proms as a celebration of our anniversary - it would be something that the girls would enjoy as well. However, the gates opened rather ealrier than we had previously understood so there was not long to check in to the Travel Inn and shorter baths than perhaps might have been the case!

Before long Andrew arrived to pick us up and transport us to Blenheim where, in the grounds of the palace, the concert was to take place. The Oxford family arrived first and staked out a picnic spot. The time before the entertainment began at 6.30 was devoted to picnics - it was a good humoured crowd that was gathering but it soon became clear that there was a definite class hierarchy: At the top were those with gazebos (even though they were banished to the Gazebo Zone), the came those carrying tables, followed by those (like us) with just chairs. Finally, some groups opted just to lie out on rugs on the grass.




Cavalry demonstrations were provided by a re-enactmnent society as well as providing plenty of photo opportunities and Alice was delighted to be able to pet one of the mounts.



The main concert itself started promptly at 7.30 (just as drizzle arrived!) and contained all the expected pieces for a promenade event, especially with lost of bangs and fireworks! The 1812 overture was the first opportunity for the gunners to show off. The rain clearly did not affect them The rain was not heavy and no-one was prepared to concede defeat to the elements - even if sales of large umbrellas rocketed!



After the interval, Beethoven's Battle Overture was another chance for lots of noise - the amount of smoke as well as noise made us realise (just a little) what it must have been like on a battlefield a century ago where the quantity would have been multiplied many times and the ground very much muddier. (We were quite surprised how well the grass stood up to the occasion, even the car park)



With Alice already asleep we decided to set off for the cars whilst the final items were being played, but not before Ellie danced to the Sailors Hornpipe.

In fact, we had an even better view of the last fireworks session by being a little further back and with the palace as backdrop. All in all, it was a very good evening and a great chance to spend time with the family!

Last Full Day

So the six weeks come almost to the end! It was also a very sunny, warm - almost hot - summer day and the threatened afternoon rain did not materialise.



The day began by a short move up to the junction where we filled the water tank for the last time. (It took a while, not least because a littler person had a very long shower this morning!) There was also a chance to take a look at the narrow locks on the Aylesbury Arm, beginning with a two lock staircase.



The next task was the seven lock Marsworth flight - Ellie was now able to 'set' the locks so that we made good progress. At the top - Bulbourne Junction - we had time to cruise up the short Wendover Arm. This canal is gradually being restored but at the moment the end is at a disused stop lock, winding and mooring point just under two miles along. Although narrow and quite slow, it was very pretty - even the bread flour factory somehow seemed in place!



Now we had only to retrace our route back towards Leighton Buzzard. Going down the Marsworth Flight was very efficient. With Ellie now well into the setting process we managed all seven locks in exactly one hour. Not bad going! At the bottom lock there was a splendid ice cream shop - although Ellie had to go to the adjoining cafe for service. Scrumptious!



The remaining locks are stretched out with just a few minutes respite between each. Close to one of the locks was a swing bridge - Ellie's first experience of operating one. At least this one is quite smooth to operate. We could also see in the distance a huge lion carved into the chalk hills on the horizon.

The final mooring and time to sort out and clean through before an early start tomorrow on the final run into the boatyard.

Wet at Marsworth

The most obvious feature of today was the rain - at times it was quite torrential and everyone became wet through more than once! However, we did make good progress, helped by some very effective lock operation by Ellie. Once or twice she needed a little help to start a heavy lock gate moving but was very keen to do as much as she could on her own. Actually, we set off before Christine was ready and Ellie was able to do all the gates and paddles whilst Mike drove the boat through the first lock!



One of the interesting features along this section of the canal are the double arched bridges. Originally the canal company planned to install a second set of locks but this development never happened.



During some of the heavier rain spells, the movie library was found to be very valuable - Ellie managed at least two!



There was one brief sunny spell after a time when the rain was so heavy that we just had to stop for about 45 minutes! Alas, the blue sky did not last very long and when we moored just before Marsworth Junction it was very heavy as Ellie completed the mooring and doing the propellor check.

Ellie Joins the Crew

It was not long after setting off that we arrived at Blisworth Tunnel - not only is it wide enough to pass boats coming the other way, but it also has sufficent water dripping (gushing) in to drown the steerers! The tunnel had to be substantially re-built a few years ago and outside the southern entrance is a sample of the concrete liner that was used. It seemed stange to realise that the tunnel - without the water - is circular!

On then to then to the Stoke Bruerne locks and this time we worked down on our own, although there was a constant stream of boats coming up.

Pressing on, we were aiming for Wolverton at 2:30 to meet up with Ellie and Adrian. Sure enough, just as Mike was negotiating Cosgrove Lock, Adrian rang to confirm details - Tesco Car Park. We arrived a little early and were just completing the check out when a further call announced that Ellie was in the car park looking for us.



Soon we were aboard with our latest crew member. We stopped at Giffard Park to take on water where Ellie quickly learnt how to tie a clove hitch mooring around a bollard. She also spotted a zip wire in a nearby play area and she, accompanied by Granny, went off to explore whilst the water tank slowly filled. After we had set off again, Ellie opted to view one of the videos which Andrew had left on the laptop specially for her.



The only remaining lock was at Fenny Stratford where there is also a swing bridge across the lock. It should have been open but was across the navigation when we arrived. Still, the lock is hardly a great effort: its rise of just over a foot resulted from an error in levels at one stage of canal construction.

Nearly south of Milton Keynes we found a mooring spot for the night and Ellie quickly showed her new found skills, not only tying the stern mooring rope but also first hammering in the spike. Alas, she also discovered the hazards of using a heavy lump hammer on the front spike and had to retire rather hurt with a squashed finger. Granny says that she'll live to tell the tale!

Through the tunnel

Our start this morning was delayed somewhat by the need to make a phone call to Warwick Police Crime Desk. They wanted to prepare a report on the break in to the boat when we were in Leamington Spa. Whilst it seemd to take a long time, it was good to know that - despite the demand on resources which the floods made - they still took minor incidents like this just as seriously as normal. Whilst there is little that they can do, at least we have a crime number for the case. Interesting to learn that, if it had been a more serious case, there was a CCTV camera not far away at the nearest road intersection, even though it would not have covered the boat itself.

Before long we neared Braunstone with its distinctive church spire a landmark for several miles. After arriving at Braunston Turn we crawled through the busy, narrow stretch to the flight of locks. It was good, whilst going through the flight, to be able to show a couple, who were interested and thinking of a canal holiday, what was involved in operating the locks.



At the tunnel entrance we could see the land slip - not large but it had deposited enough into the canal to reduce the entrance to a single boat width.



After a lunch stop we tackled the Long Buckby flight, accompanied in the locks by a full length boat where a couple were being shown how to work father's boat before the grandparents went off with the three grandchildren for a couple of day's break! It took an exceptional length of time to work nthe flight, partly because of the poor maintenance on many of nthe gates but also because most of the boats coming up were rather slow in working through!



After the locks came the long level pound to Stoke Bruerne. There were large quantities of moored boats which are quite oppressive. British Waterways really must address this as a long term policy issue and aim to take all long term mooring off the canal. At Heyford a large new marina was under construction - without water it was possible to see what is normally out of view.



After the rain of so many days, it is gooid to be able to report that today was a bright, sunny and warm day - almost like summer!

Not Braunston Tunnel

We already knew that there was a problem with the tunnel at Braunston so we set off on the remaining section to the junction not knowing quite where we would be going for the day. We arrived and the notice set it all: CLOSED. As we were filling up with water, a Waterways member of staff arrived with the latest report: the tunnel entrance and approaches were to be examined by engineers today (they had not had an opportunity to do so over the weekend) but it was feared that a landslip had caused damage to the structure of the tunnel stonework. If confirmed this would mean a significant stoppage.



After a discussion by mobile with Wyvern Shipping (the boat hire company) we decided to cruise up the North Oxford and possibly part of the Ashby Canal - at least this was somewhere that was open, even if not necessarily the most thrilling of canal scenery! At one point we passed - slowly - under a bridge on a tight bend that had clearly taken a few knocks and was in urgent need of maintenance!



The only locks on this stretch for well over twenty miles are the three locks at Hilmorton. They remain as pairs of locks with all pairs fully functioning (unlike many we encountered on the Trent and Mersey). They did, however, have somewhat unusual paddle winding mechanisms with catches guaranteed to give greasy fingers! Shortly after the flight we called at a boatyard to take on more fuel and for a pump out. They confirmed that the latest information was that Braunston remained closed.



We continued through Rugby intent on making it to Hawesbury stop lock for nightfall. However, just after passing through the short Newbold Tunnel we received a message from James at Wyvern telling us that British Waterways had just announced that the tunnel was now re-open. We confirmed that this was the case ourselves and, although it is possible that urgent dredging works tomorrow may cause some delays, we stopped to discuss our options.

As the route ahead was not especially interesting and, to improve our chances of making it back to Leighton Buzzard on Saturday morning, as well as thinking about the stretch for Ellie to do with us on Thursday and Friday, we opted to turn around and head straight back to Braunston. It is unlikely that we will quite reach it tonight but should be able to tackle the locks and the tunnel first thing in the morning. This means that we may well have time to go south of Leighton Buzzard on the last two days! As we passed the boatyard where we had called two hours earlier, their notice now said Tunnel OPEN!

Ellie and Alice

Today we planned to meet up with Joanna, Adrian, Ellie and Alice. As we did not have a very good mobile signal, we good not get through to them - we did get a voice mail message overnight which indicated that they might have a problem with roads closed by the floods. To give us the best chance of meeting, we moved the boat on, through five locks - including a two-rise staircase - to Bascote Bridge.

Before we reached the we sawing a waving hand - Ellie - and the family walking down the towpath. Despite their fears, the roads were open but with almost no traffic so they were able to make good time! Adrian and Joanna were going to spend the day shopping in Milton Keynes but it was several locks up the Stockton Flight before they coulkd drag themselves away - to the Blue Lias pub which was recommended by passing boaters! Ellie was quick to take her place at the tiller to take driving lessons from grandad.



Both Ellie and Alice helped with the locks and Ellie especially proved very competent at winding the paddles up and down as well as shifting 3 tonne lock gates! By the time we had passed through the Calcutt Locks Alice was very good at walking across the top of the gates. Just as well as the ice cream shop at the top of the floiught was on the other side of the canal! Unfortunately, the grandparenting task proved too demanding (or the grandparents were too incompetent) to take any photos of these feats!



After turing left at Napton Junction they moored close to Fleckno Bridge to await the return of the parents - and a roast chicken dinner which was gradually prepared during the last cruising period. Ellie undertook the daily engine maintenance tasks.

Royal Leamington Spa

Lack of a mobile signal meant that we could not have filed a blog yesterday - even if we had had the energy (which we did not!) We planned to shop in Leamington Spa today and so left the upload until we could find the listed Wetherspoons which we eventually managed mid afternoon.
The morning involved just a couple of locks as we cruised past Warwick, crossing the River Avon at one point which was very evidently swollen with the rain - more in a moment.

We moored near the centre of Leamington and set off with rucksacks to track down some good supplies. Soon we could see the main bridge in the distance, lined with crowds. When we reached the bridge (over the Avon) it was obvious what was the attraction: the FLOODS. By the bridge is the old Pump Room where we expected to find the Tourist Information Centre. Alas it, and the library, were closed because of a threat of flooding! The adjacent park which normally borders the river and is a pleasant spot in summer was under water. A nearby street was closed as it was impassable.



We completed the specialist shopping - butcher, baker and greengrocer - and by then we were carrying so much that we returned to the boat before going to a supermarket.

By the time we reached the town centre for the second time, the flood level was evidently much higher and a second park was now flooded and a footbridge closed as its safety was threatened by the water.



When we returned again to the boat - after visiting Tesco and Wetherspoons - we found that it had been broken into. A small window had been removed and few items stolen: an IPAQ (useless without the connecting cables) and an old digital camera which we had brought as a spare but not the better mobile phone or CD players. We reported the incident to the police but they were so tied up with monitoring the floods that they could only record the report and expect to ring us perhaps on Monday - or later!

After another four locks, spread out over a couple of miles, we decided to moor so that we could reach a sensible meeting point with the Oxford Crew tomorrow.

Hatton

Both the weather forecast and Nicholsons Guide proved correct predictors for the day: very wet and lots of locks! We began, in heavy rain, to complete the Lapworth flight - there were sixteeen locks remaining, including the last one on the link arm that connects to the Grand Union. We met quite a few boats coming up, presumably those that arrived at yesterday's stoppage after the closure time.

In any event, we made good progress down the flight and watered at the junction. By now, the rain was definitely in the torrential class as described later on the news - the heaviest yet for extended rain; we have seen heavier rainfall but only as shorter showers. There were just over four miles to navigate before the famous (infamous?) Hatton flight. Mike steered whilst Christine dried out and prepared for the inevitable clothing change. Shortly after 1 o'clock, Hatton arrived and we opted for a long lunch break. A complete strip change was needed for Mike after the hour's soaking!



We deliberately gave ourselves a three hour long break - hoping that the rain might lose some of its ferocity by mid afternoon. The plan was then to continue later into the evening, so whilst Christine snoozed, Mike prepared the evening meal. (Actually, he snoozed a little and read as well, but we don't admit that!)

4:20 and the rain had abated to a drizzle so we set off to the Hatton flight, with its distinctive sluice mechanisms. We discovered that these were very hard to work - Christine could barely turn the windlass - each taking 20 - 23 turns to open fully. However, they must be very large as we also discovered that it was really only necessary to use one of the two at each end, especially where they are close together and then there is time to set the next lock.



A boat had come up the flight shortly before we set off and so we were hopeful that the flight might be set for us. However, by the fourth lock they were all empty so they must have passed probably the only other boat using the flight today at that point. This, of course, meant that each lock had to be filled before we could go down. In working out an efficient operation, it turned out that using only one sluice meant that the boat was easier for Christine to control in the locks (by the way, we should have pointed out that at this flight we returned to the larger double width locks) and she soon became very efficient at controlling the boat by rope as it started its descent and whilst waiting at the tail for the next lock to open.


After about two hours, heavier rain returned but by now it was obvious that the water levels were rising distinctly in the flight. With five locks to go, the locks were already full for us (they should have been empty like those preceding) So much water was coming down that it flowed over the top of the gate. Our relief at not having to fill the locks was short lived as by the next lock the water was coming over the gate so fast that even one of the Hatton sluices was not enough to empty the lock enough to open the tail gate and both were needed. We had not met a single boat coming up the entrei flight.



Nevertheless, by six minutes past eight o'clock were were finally through - that is 21 locks in 3 hours 36 minutes at just 10 minutes per lock! We felt that our stiffness as we attempted to complete the tasks of mooring, checking the engine, sorting out mountains of wet clothes and finalising the evening meal was entirely justified! Tomorrow had better be easier!

Out of Birmingham

After filing the blog last night, we went to explore the central Birmingham area, especially Bridley Wharf. One of the information panels showed a picture of how Gas Street basin looked in the early 1970's - our first experience was even earlier! We can certainly vouch for how run down it looked back then.

After checking out quite a number of eateries, we opted for a Japanese restaurant - which turned out to be rather interesting, if only for the entertainment value! None of the eating places were particularly busy but we were grouped with a party of four women celebrating two birthdays and two men in the city on business. The chef cooks the food in front of the guests. We took the 'eight course chef special on the basis that we did not know enough to make any better choices! However, we lacked nothing - at least in quantity. All in all it was a pleasant evening and was a change from pub grub which has been the only form of eating
off-boat that we have so far managed.



We also changed our plans for the next section of the route - if only to avoid having to start the day with two large flights of locks! Instead, we too the Worcs and Birmingham route followed by the north Stratford. This gave us around 15 lock-free miles! The section out of Birmingham was initially rather pleasant as the canal was bordered on both sides by trees and shrubs. However, after passing the Cadbury factory at Bourneville there was little to disguise the nature of the immediate environs. Even so, the canal is generally much cleaner than we remembered it.



The Stratford Canal is much narrower and progress slower, not helped by the number of craft coming the other way. Eventually we discovered why: Lock 8 at Lapworth was to be closed at 2.30 for the rest of the evening for emergency repairs. We then realised that this two day stoppage was actually in the stoppage list but, with the change of route, we had not spotted it! Still, it was just as well, otherwise we would have stretched oursleves to get there in time.



After completing the first four locks there is a slightly longer pound where we found a good overnight mooring. Only one other boat was here, slightly to our surprise. Then we wandered down to see the work in progress. Yesterday they had fitted a new balance beam, to the top gate and today they were replacing the cill (a piece of wood that makes the seal with the gate at the bottom of the lock entrance) As we arrived they were just starting to replace the gate. It was quite intriguing to see how they could manouvre such a large weight quite delicately into place.

Birmingham

We set off in good time on a day that was very sunny and warm, apart from a couple of the briefest of showers. After re-tracing back along the Stourbridge Town Arm to the main Storubridge Canal, we set about the Stourbridge Sixteen flight of locks. Although they were almost all empty and set for us, we were rather pleased to complete them in 2 hours 45 minutes.

Part way up we passed a huge glass bottle kiln, now a museum about glass production. Just above there is also a basin for a former warehouse which is now used for boatbuilding. Shortly after completing the flight we stopped for a much deserved early lunch - and took over an hour!



Next came the Delph Flight - originally known as the Nine Locks (still used locally) but two locks were later re-built as one so now it has 8 locks which we completed in 68 minutes! (We did have help at one lock where BW staff were carrying out repairs to the lock surround - not sure how many of the 'gang' were actually doing anything!)

We were now really beginning to enter the Birmingham conurbation - although the canal itself is generally lined with greenery, much better than when we came this way many years ago. Merryfield is a huge retail and office and includes a very smart central area built around the canal - wide and impressive - a good place to moor. However, after passing under the last bridge, the original style of canal returns quite abruptly.

After passing the turning to the Dudley Tunnel (which we decided not to try to explore at this stage in proceedings!) we took the Dudley No 2 Canal (No 1 was the section from the top of Delph to the tunnel) At Windmill End there was a pleasant nature reserve and country park surrounding the canal as it prepared itself for the Netherton Tunnel.

Netherton Tunnel is very wide - enough for boats to pass with a towpath (currently closed) on each side. After a while, we seemed to be able to see flashing lights. A little later we discovered that they marked a work boat moord in the tunnel. Further on there were another three (all together) similarly marked.



Once through the tunnel we were quickly onto the Birmingham Main Line - the later canal from Wolverhampton to Birmingham which is very straight and very wide. At various junctions with other loops and older canals, the remains of toll islands reduced the navigable width to that hardly wider than the boat. At many points along the line the towpath rises over a short bridge, indicating what was once a wharf or local loop line - this highlights just how busy and important this canal was to the prosperity of Birmingham and an industrial and commercial centre of England. Many of these bridges were built from cast iron shapes, showing how the original developers did not always lose their sense of good looks, even for what was essentially a functional necessity.



A huge motorway bridge provided a sharp contrast in design. Most of the BCN Main Line is in a deep cutting - work to provide good quality towpaths and to allow the natural ground coverage of the banks to develop means that far more people use the canal for walking, jogging and cycling than for boating. (In fact, we passed only three boats on the move all day!) The sad fact is that this huge asset for the conurbation is still not considered safe for overnight mooring, even allowing for the fact that a busy railway runs close by. Even some of the side arms could easily be converted into secure moorings. (Even being in a supposed secure mooring last night did not prevent one of our fenders from disappearing by morning!) We continued into the central
areawhere there are many boats moored overnight and a quick foray suggests that we will be spoilt for choice in looking for an eating place once this blog is finished!

Stourbridge

Immediately after setting off we descended a two-lock Botterham staircase before continuing down the Staffs and Worcs. We filled our water tank above Greensforge Lock and then entered an especially pretty stretch down to Stourton Junction.



At this point we turned right onto the Stourbridge Canal with an immediatre four lock flight to take us up to the Stourbridge level. Whilst the day had begun fresh and sunny, the rain returned within the hour - just after we had finished the Stourton flight there were rumbles of thunder, very black clouds and, inevitably, heavy rain. As a result we opted to moor up for lunch!



The afternoon was largely dry and, when the sun eventually came out, rather warm. At Wordsley Junction we took the arm into the town of Stourbridge where we had earlier been told that we could find a pump out service. Both the main Stourbridge line and the town arm are pleasant with remarkably clear water. The last part of the arm had a large number of water lilies.



We did indeed find the pump out at The Bonded Warehouse, a former canal building now restored as the headquarters of the Stourbridge Navigation Trust. When we inquired about moorings they offered us a secure location overnight. As the next part of the main Stourbridge Canal, once we have returned down the arm, immediately encounters the Stourbridge 16 flight of locks, we decided to take up the offer. The stretch above the flight may not be easy to find a mooring!

The town centre has plenty of shops, although we arrived not long before closing time. However, we did find a wifi hotspot, uploaded a few more pictures and updated our normal mailboxes - largely full of spam and junk!

Almost Wolverhampton

The day began bright and sunny and largely stayed that way un til we moored - although there were a few moments of concern when some very black clouds threatened from the horizon. Perhaps because of the weather, we are allowing ourselves a double allowance of pictures in this blog! There were also several interesting (at least to the afficianado!) features to note.

We noted yesterday the distinctive designs of each canal - another facet of the Staffs and Worcs are the bridge name plates - not just a number.



Whilst we have still not seen any kingfishers we did manage to capture a picture of a heron as we passed by. There do seem to be many more herons around than we remember from previous canal cruises. They usually fly off well before the boat arrives but on this occasion it glided in to the bank in front of us. In the context of a canal their wingspan makes them seem quite enormous!



South of Coven Heath the map indicates 'Very Narrow Cutting': it indeed was a correct description. Carved from stone it was, for about half a mile, little wider than a single boat, with just a couple of passing places.



Just after the cutting, a huge 'hedge' of mature trees lined the canal, separating it from an adjoining school grounds. Even more spectacular than the Great Ilex Hedge at Mount Edgcumbe.



After passing Autherley Junction, where the Shroppie starts its run up to Chester, and then Aldersley Junction, the bottom of the Wolverhampton 21, the southern part of the Staffs and Worcs begins its 31 lock journey down to the River Severn, but we are not going that far. (What, not another river? Not likely!)

Bratch Locks comprise a flight of three locks, separated by very short pounds - the gates of each lock are just 3 metres apart so they do not form a staircase. However, they do have functioning side ponds to preserve water. As a result not only do they require careful operation, it is not possible to pass boats in the opposite direction. A lock keeper is on duty during the summer season. When Christine went to operate the locks he introduced himself as a 'grumpy lock keeper' - he proved to be far from an exception to to our universal experience hitherto! He also told Christine that the Severn is indeed closed again owing to excess flood conditions.



Locks also have unusal overflow weirs - we saw at least three different designs in the section. It seems that they are designed to maximise the length of the controlling level, allowing the water to fall down into a central culvert. At one time they were rather dangerous as anything - or anybody - that falls into the weir quickly becomes trapped in culvert.