Skipton

Although it had rained overnight, the 8 o'clock start was dry - rain came before too long, however! A two lock staircase faced us just after starting and then it was a short run to Bingley, with its famous Three and Five Rise staircases. On the approach we were again impressed by the extensive re-development of warehouses, mills and other former industrial buildings, including one huge project by Barratts.



The Bingley locks (alongside the large Damart factory) have to be worked with the assistance of a lock keeper - a result of too many accidents by boaters (often using the locks after normal working hours) who did not know how to operate the staircases. We were told that at one stage, boat sinking was a regular occurrence - almost daily! The locks are each about 13 feet rise and the middle gates are truly awesome! The keepers maintain a very slow and steady pace through the locks so it was well after 10 am before we cleared the flight. From here the canal has no locks for some distance but is regularly interrupted by swing bridges - about a third are mechanised, each to a different design!



Mike had a tentative date to meet up with the chirman of an internet discussion group to which he has belonged for a number of years. Using a combination of email (which only worked from the roof of the boat) and mobile phone, it was arranged to meet near to Kildwick for a pub lunch. We did indeed make contact and Chris Wright (whom Mike had never actually met face to face!) joined us for the last section into the pub. The canalside hosteltry was welcoming and supplied us with most acceptable baguettes.

Time however pressed as we needed to make it into Skipton in time to some food shopping. The rain held off just for that period, returning with a vengeance as we moved across to a water point. As we had not fully filled the water tank for some days, we decided to shelter whilst taking quite a sizeable amount. Alas, the rain turned even heavier for the final section to find a mooring point, out into the countryside beyond the town. For the first time, the evening engine check revealed some wire and plastic bag remains around the prop which Andrew managed to cut free.

Leeds and Liverpool

it was a bright and sunny day, unlike the heavy rain still forecast for tomorrow. This stretch of canal is distinguished by a series of staircase locks - two or more locks joined together so that the top gates of one are the bottom gates of the next. As a result they take a little more care in operating correctly and not losing vast quantities of water. As a result, there are always several lock kepers on duty along the way. Bingley has its famous five rise which is closed when the lock keeper goes off duty.

We needed to arrange a pump out and to take on more diesel but this proved a little more dificult than suggested in Nicholson's Guide. The first marina we drove into (taking 20 minutes in the process) proved to be totally deserted. The next, at Rodley Wharf - who had previously told us on the phone that they did pump out and diesel - were very disinclined to serve us and we eventually agreed that it would not be worth them spending half an hour moving other boats just for that! (We did check that another marina further on provided the service and they assured us that they would be ready and waiting)

True to their word, when we arrived at Apperley Bridge we were indeed expected. Although they did not have enough fuel to fill our tank, they did manage to do the pump out for us - quite a relief!



At one lock we spotted a family of very young ducklings caught on the downside of the overflow. No doubt that had managed to get there when the water was flowing over but mother called to them and they made valiant, if not desperate, attempts to jump over the hurdle, without success. Eventually, mother came to join them and led the group down the spillway to the water at the bottom!



We continued with a series of staircases and swing bridges. There are almost as many bridges to open as locks and each one is different. Some are just for access to farms or buildings isolated on the 'wrong' side of the canal, whilst others carry traffic. At one bridge we had five cars one way and four cars waiting the other way - power!

There was only one powered bridge and another had a very complex mechanism which involved unlocking and re-locking two road barriers, winding one windlass 18 turns clockwise and the other 36 turns anti-clockwise! Saltaire was once famous for its mills, each of which was a most impressive building (no matter what it might have been like to work there). Their industrial use has long gone but many have been converted into apartments or offices and look very resplendent in their new life.

For most of today it was difficult to realise how close to urban life we were - the canal is sheltered by woodlands often on both sides and the water is very clear - ennough to see the bottom of the canal. Realising we were too late for Bingley locks tonight we moored a little early, along a very pleasant stretch of canal.

Leeds at last

Awoke to find that, although the river level had dropped further, it was still showing red and a call to BW
indicated that it would be some time before the flood locks at Wakefield and above would re-open. As a result, to avoid being completely stir crazy, we decided to navigate back down the canal section to Woodnook Lock where it re-joins the river.

On arrival the situation was ambiguous but a BW lock keeper appeared shortly afterwards and we had a long conversation, including him making a call on his mobile to a colleague who looks after Nostrop Flood Gates. The upshot was that it seemed safe to continue - which subsequent experience supported. In fact, both the Calder and the Aire were more subdued than the Trent when we came down. In any case, we had already been advisd that the Aire at Leeds was already down to amber in the early morning.



It was certainly a relief to be on the move again and we were determined to clear the river sections before stopping - more heavy rain is still forecast for the weekend. The sight of the Knostrop Flood gates open was an important milestone. Once in the centre of Leeds the architecture was most impressive - both the conversion of historic warehouses and the futuristic Royal Armories Museum.

Despite indications in Nicholsons and elsewhere, Leeds River Lock - the commencement of the Leeds and Liverpool canal - was unmanned and not locked up. (We had missed the deadline of 4 pm given in some listings by a few minutes due to a malfunctioning sluice in the preceding lock) However, our progress was halted after about an hour as the two-rise staircase (Oddy Two) was locked by BW. Hope for a good start in the morning!



The locks here are all protected with handcuff locks which take an extra amount of time to open - manipulating them on and off sometimes seems like a Chinese puzzle! The top ground paddles are also different - they are worked by turning a horizontal capstan-like mechanism.

Coal Mining

The canal is still closed although the river water level continues to drop, more slowly than before. By the end of today we are convinced that it can only be about 9 inches above normal water level for the canal - but still no sign of amber on the marker board. Careful comparison of photos over the past two hours suggests that it fell another couple of inches. Hopefully tomorrow will bring better news especially as more heavy rain is forecast for the weekend. If we do not get away in the next 48 hours, it will be a very long stay. If we can go via the Leeds and Liverpool, that is is now our preferred option but does involve navigating the River Aire as well as the River Calder, before reaching Leeds.After that would be on canal only.

We decided not to waste the day and took the bus into Wakefield. After consulting the helpful Tourist Information Centre, we opted for the National Coalmining Museum, just outside the city at Overton. It was a 25 minute bus ride away.

FREE ADMISSION was not the only attraction! (but it helped!) Even the underground tour was included in the admisssion ticket price! Although it was not always easy to decode the foreign accent (Yorkshire mining!) it was still a worthwhile experience and a chance to see what working condiitons were once like - despite modern Health and Safety regulations which mean that we could only have a taste of what it must have really been like.

It was a beautiful, sunny afternoon and evening by the time we returned to the boat so (were it not for the background concern about now soon we can get away from here) it was no hardship to sit and read for a couple of hours and to walk around the nearby water nature park.

Marking Time

Stuck behind the floods all day!

That's really all there is to say. We had a wakeful night, someone on watch throughout, checking the river water level at regular intervals. It eventually peaked about 2 am, just an inch or perhaps two below the level of the defensive stonework at the top of the flood lock. If it had risen any more then no-one knows what might have happened - it is possible that the canal could have flooded from either end as, we later learnt, the river below the weir was up to the top of the Stanley Ferry Aqueduct, just a mile or so further back along the canal.

By 9 am, the level had dropped almost as dramatically as it has risen, now some four feet or more below the high point. However, it is likely that the further reductions to safe navigable levels will be quite slow.

After a morning of doing very little - surprise, surprise - we eventually decided to walk into Wakefield along the riverside footpath. The first section last night was in the middle of the flood plain! The weir in the city centre was flowing well although, again, the evidence of much higher flood levels yesterday was evident everywhere.

After a little shopping and using Wetherspoons for wifi (not a freebie this time, alas) we bought a length of timber to fashion into a handspike - we also took a look at an actual mechansim on Wakefield flood lock to see how it works and what size it needs to be. Then, the only imaginitive thing to do, was to walk back to the boat the way we came.



The exciting part of the day (!) was a short boat movement back to the water point to fill up the tanks! Afterwards, Andrew walked down to the aqueduct and saw for himself the extent of the rubbish which had collected, including a tractor tyre deposited on top of the footbridge! He also learnt that there was a lot of worried boat people around there last night!

Floods

We awoke to the sight of very, very heavy rain. We navigated a short distance to Stanley Ferry Marina - the main reason was that we had seen on an internet web site that a boater had acquired a Calder and Hebble hand spike from the boatyard here. We crossed the new aqueduct, which cross the River Calder with about a foot clearance, alongside the older one which was built to a design that anticipated the Newcastle and Sydney Harbour bridges.

After waiting for the boatyard to open (luckily there was a couple of seats shelterd from the rain) we were told that they do not stock them, despite saying that they have been asked three times for one! The owner advised that we may be able to get one from Dewsbury or we could just use a mooring spike!



On then to the next lock - just a short distance - only to see the flashing red light warning against trying navigate the river section. The height board was also well into the red so it was a 'no brainer' to decide that we were to be moored here for the duration! A man living in the former lock cottage, who described himself as a former lock keeper, was also keen to make sure we were not so foolish as to attempt to proceed and, in any case, it would not be possible to pass Wakefield itself. As we monitored the water level against the old marks (in Roman numerals) we realised that the fast-flowing river had risen two feet in little over two hours!

After lunch, Mike and Andrew opted to go into Wakefield in search of food supplies, leaving Christine to read and look after the boat! From the top of the lane a bus route runs into the city centre and a text message service
confirmed that the hourly service was due in a few minutes.

The city Tourist Information Centre happily supplied us with a map and directed us to the shops we were seeking. After raiding an independent butcher and Morrisons (alas) as well as being disappointed by the supplier of fresh bread, it was time to return. A bus was indicated as due in a few minutes but is never appeared so we resorted to a taxi from the nearby rank.



The river continued to rise and could be seen to have over-flowed the banks beyond the lock, filling the flood plain. By the time the rain started to abate around 5 pm it was up by nearly two metres! However, as this blog is being written, there are signs that it has reached its peak - for now, in any case. Watching the local news shows that we have not been as badly affected as others - only inconvenienced by being able to continue with our trip.

Ferrybridge and Castleford

A slower start today as we have no tight schedule to meet! The first section was to complete the dead straight run of the New Junction Cut before joining the Aire and Calder Navigation for the rest of the day.



With still some commercial traffic, the Aire and Calder is wide and well maintained, yet still very clean water. For some distance we were close to the huge Ferrybridge 'C' power station. We also passed the unloading station where each barge is lifted out of the water and its contents emptied into the process plant. Later on we passed another depot where there were also some of the tugs which are used to move long trains of the these barges.



This section also has mechanically powered locks which, once you have become familiar with the operating sequence, are surprisingly impressive bits of engineering! The Personal Mobile Radios, which Andrew brought along, proved useful and comforting in operating these locks where it is not easy to see from the boat what is happening with the operation. Most of the locks are so large that our boat seems quite diminutive!



Once in the safety of the canal bypass to the river at Castleford we took the luxury of mooring for lunch. Following this. Mike and Andrew walked into the town in search of a Calder and Hebble hand spike, a new lump hammer (the one supplied failed with metal fatigue last night) and wifi access.

Whilst they failed to find a hand spike (the BW depot was unsurprisingly closed) they succeeded otherwise and returned rather pleased that, for 99p each - the price of a latte - they both had 30 minutes high speed access parts of the internet which are unrealistic using the mobile phone link. Significantly, they acquired lists of wifi hotspots (which were left behind) and the locations of Wetherspoons pubs (who provide the special offer). And, by the way, the coffee was quite good! (Pictures from the trip so far are now on the Picasa web album)

We continued and were pleased to show a small group of interested youngsters at Castleford lock how the lock is operated. They seemed to enjoy being allowed to press the buttons to move the huge lock gates. Whilst the lock showed a flashing red light (which we later realised meant that the river was in flood) the static indicator board gave a level at the join between amber and green and so we were content to proceed.

By the time we reached the next lock, which took us off the river again, the indicator was in the red! The main concern now is for a short section tomorrow which returns to the river. We shall see. Still in need of the hand spike, we moored just before the boatyard at Stanley Ferry which is reputed to sell them. At least when we were on the wifi we could see what they look like!

Tidal Trent

Instructions from the Keadby lock keeper, as relayed by Cromwell and other locks, were to start at 6.30 in order to reach Keadby just after 11 am. The main reason was supposed to be the state of the tide, although we later learned that there is quite a wide window around high tide. The time we were given was about the time when the incoming tide balances the river flow - the extra water from the rains makes it difficult to predict.

We duly set off in a rather misty and quite eerie atmosphere, continuing to speed downstream. Although bthere are few stopping points, most stretches were interesting and all very different. Obviously the river gradually widens until it is almost intimidating!

After almost two hours (including some more very heavy showers) we arrived at Gainsborough where there is a visitor pontoon where we tied up - quite hairy coming alongside with the river flow! We went into the town in search of bread and milk the market stalls were only just setting up but we tracked down a small indpenedent bakery shop - definitely better than supermarket!

We returned to the waterfront which is gradually being much improved by a riverside walkway and new apratment blocks. As we were about to set off, two GRP boats raced up and indicated that they wanted to use the spot which we were vacating. Alas there was a slight bump due to the flow of the river but we did not see anything untoward in the incident until they later came racing up behind us to demand details be left at Keadby lock keeper! We shall see . . .




As we arrived at Keadby - more or less on schedule - there was a single coaster ship tied up alongside, opposite to the lock entrance. At one time this might have been a much busier wharfing place. Coming into the lock, which was ready for us, was a challenge but we managed to read the water flow correctly and came into the calm of the lock chamber without a problem.

Now for something quite different: the Stainforth and Keadby Canal (part of the South Yorkshire Navigations) is wide and once carried large quantities of commercial barge traffic, but no longer. Today, it is most attractive and the canal banks have been allowed to grow naturally.



There are several bridges to be opened, both swing and lift, both powered and not. (The first is a railway bridge that move a complete section of track sideways to allow boats through!) Each need safety gates to be opened and closed so passage is limnited by the time needed to read the different sets of instructions for each one. Some are well automated and only need a single button push to set the whole opening or closing sequence in motion.

The New Junction Cut is a long, completely straight section built in 1905, again for commercial barge traffic. Two thirds of the way along is Sykehouse lock - amazingly huge - and just below we found a welcome mooring spot. Even the sun came out to celebrate!

(And, dear reader, we have lots more pix of bridges of various types!)

River Trent

As with Leicester and Loughborough before, it was impressive to see just how much city and town centre re-development has improved the canal frontage. Only two locks remained on the short run to the Trent but we stopped at the second to take on water, not being sure quite when we would next be able to do so.

Out on the river and we quickly found ourselves carried along on the fast-flowing stream at an impressive 11-12 kilometres an hour (kilometre posts helped to estimate speed over the ground) even though speed through the water did not seem to be much faster than when on a canal.

Alas, rain started to fall and persisted as very heavy rain until lunch time. The locks from Holme Lock onwards are manned and operated by power. In view of the huge size and serious wood and metal work in the gates, this is no doubt welcome to the lock keepers. Alongside Holme Lock is the National Water Sports Centre and the canoe slalom was much in evidence. Our experience of the brief chats to the lock keepers was universally friendly and they are keen to offer advice, information and to let you know that they are informing the next lock of your progress. Even so, our exceptionally fast speed caught one or two of them unawares as we arrived ten minutes ahead of (their) schedule!



At Cromwell we picked up final information about mooring at Torksey (a previous keeper had already checked for us that there was space available on the pontoons) but here the keeper was more cautious about the ntime to reach Keadby and suggested a 6.30 start tomorrow morning. Keadby lock can only be accessed for a certain time around high tide so journey planning is important to avoid a lengthy wait, tied up alongside the river mooring waiting for the lock to re-open.



The river scenery was very attractive - wide expanse of water and most of the time edged by trees or shrubs. If only the weather had been kinder we might have taken the chance to stop off but our concern that more rain might lift the river levels once again and bring navigation to halt, meant that we pressed on.

The River Trent has been the source of water for many power stations and we passed or saw several - although the one at High Marnham seemed not to be operatinbg - at least no steam was emerging from any of its five cooling towers.

The afternoon was dry and, just occasionally, the sun peeped through enough to encouyrage the third member of the crew to take on steering for an hour or so!

We made good time and by early evening we were tied up on the pontoons below Torksey Lock. A chat with the lock keeper here confirmed the advisory start tomorrow of 6.30. We presume this is intended to ensure that we arrive at Keadby at high tide and do not have to cope with a flow either up or down as we turn into the lock.

There was time for a short stroll to the village of Torksey but nothing of note was found!

Andrew Joins the Crew

Slow start as we assessed the flood situation. Everyone we talked to gave a different story, all claiming to have been in touch with British Waterways! The red light was still showing and it seems likely that this was, by now, precautionary and that navigation was safe enough. Generally, indications suggest that the Trent is better than the Soar.

Delaying a start even further, we filled up with water before going down to the lock itself. Two other boats were passing ahead of us and perhaps a dozen in total that morning. So . . . off we set, having first to wait for a group of youngsters being brought up through the lock together with their canoes. They were heading for the weir!

Although the river was fast running, it did not seem especially flooded and when we reached Pillings Flood Lock, a little further downstream, it actually showed the level well down the amber section and almost to the green!

The next section is canal and we moored at Bridge 38 with just 15 mins before Andrew was due at the railway station. He arrived only minutes later, pulling tolley loaded with four crates of beer and wine - oh, and his baggage as well! Should not run out too soon.



On to Loughborough Junction (Wharf closed for development work on huge black of student flats). Shopping and a chance to find the flat where we first lived after we were married. Generated some debate as we could not find the entrance! The street still housed a thriving market, now extended into the main town centre which is now
pedestrianised.

Whilst we were able to do most of our shopping in local shops and from the market stalls there was still a need to visit Sainsburys! Four bags later we returned to the boat and set off.

Much relief as we approached Bishop Meadow Lock (where we once moored our own - very small - boat) the light was green and the sign stated that the river was now open. Even so, the flow was still speedy and we raced down the river. Some very heavy showers crept up unawares. At one point we passed under a main road bridge and were amused to see that we were probably moving faster than the queue of traffic above!

Trent Junction arrived and, for a short distance, we navigated upstream - very slowly! Then we turned into the Cranfleet Cut followed by a return to the river. A boat coming upstream reported taking two hours from Beeston Cut - we did it downstream in 45 minutes! The river is quite spectacular - pretty as well as much larger than the average canal.



The shelter of Beeston Cut was a welcome sight and we found a satisfactory mooring opposite the Boots Estate - well shielded by trees and shrubs.

Leicester and Floods

A later start today and we were soon in the company of another boat as we worked down the locks of the Leicester section. This made life a little easier even though there were only two on each boat.

As we approached Leicester we joined the River Soar which has been in flood after the recent rains. Although now down to navigable levels, it was very fast flowing and progress over the ground was very rapid! Navigating near weirs needed some confidence - the wide weir alongside the Leicester City football ground is quite intimidating as it is approached. In fact it was not as difficult as some of the narrower weirs later on.




The centre of the city has been very much improved, with many new developments. No-one wants to buy an apartment and overlook a tatty canal so no doubt there has been a lot of pressure to keep the area tidy! Sadly, some of the efforts have been spoilt by graffiti 'artists'.

By the time we reached Birstall the river was becoming more of a challenge. We moored for lunch below the lock as Christine expected to have a view of the school where she taught for three years at the end of the Sixties. She did not take into account that the open land that surrounded the school in those days is now covered by extensive housing estates! Over lunch she mused that some of the pupils she then taught (it was an Upper School) will now be in their late fifties and probably grandparents themselves.

We paused at Cossington to take a look at the Old Mill restaurant (listed in Nicholsons) which we went to several times when we lived in Loughborough. Imagine then, dear reader, our disappointment to discover that it has now closed and is a private home. Some very dilapidated signs were the only indication of what was once here. We obviously cannot dine here tonight as hoped.



As we emerged from Sileby lock we were confronted by the river blocked by a boat that was attempting to turn around but had become stuck with the incredible maelstrom of water swirling around below the weir alongside the lock. Eventually they freed themselves but it was a reminder of just how powerful moving water can be.

Concerned to find a safe overnight mooring we took the next available space - the last visitor mooring above Barrow Deep lock - not necessarily the location of choice under more normal circumstances but at least it feels safe!

Foxton to Leicester

Set off in time to arrive at the Foxton flight at opening time. The plan worked and as we turned the corner we could see the lockkeeper preparing the top lock, ready for us to run straight in. Three quarters of an hour later we had completed the flight! Rather different from yesterday!



The long pound to Kibworth flight was narrow and reedy at times but there was little traffic anyway. Saddington tunnel is very straight - luckily we were not troubled by bats - despite the note in Nicholsons that some interesting bats are supposed to live in it. Many stretches are very attractive with no villages close by.

The long run down to Leicester is marked with locks at frequent intervals. At first they are collected together in short flights but from Kilby they are mostly one at a time. As a result, there is little time to make coffee, tea or lunch on the way. Just before Kilby we stopped for lunch - and a needed rest break: working these locks seems
especially hard work!

After lunch we moved up to Kilby wharf to take on water before continuing for a short distance to South Wigston where we moored up to walk to the nearby shops. The main street looked very run down and soon we could see the final straw - a new Tesco's. Whilst we too joined the herd, we could overhear several people worrying about what would happen - no-one would open a small shop now.

One of the items we wanted was a key chain (one with the spiral plastic lead) - to keep the Watermate key safely whilst working the locks which are protected with extra security through this stretch. Whilst every member of Tesco's staff had such an item for their keys or carboard box opener, they were not on sale. The assistant uggested trying a stationers - but they all seem to have closed after Tesco opened! In fact we did find one at a harmacy store. The lass at the till wanted to charge only 10p for it! We re-negotiated the price to the 20p coin e offered.

This stretch of the canal is now largely adjoined by relatively new housing and is is generally much better than we recalled from 37 years ago when it was quite unattractive in places. Finding a mooring spot did not present too many challenges!

Leicester Section - Day 1

Overnight further rain and the locks were overflowing. This made the Buckby flight quite hard work. The flow was such that it was necessary to keep both sets of paddles (each side of the lock) open in order to open a gate. The result was slower progress although by the time we were half way through the flight other boats were coming down, so some of the locks were set for us.



This stretch of the canal sees a Roman Road (now A5), railway (with Virgin trains) and the M1 motorway all sharing the same route. The noise from the traffic is relentless and disruptive of the countryside. From a picture - with no sound - the canal closest to the morotway appears idyllic! One also wonders if, some time into the future, the motorway will be consigned to a holiday experience, just as with the canals which, when built, were the principal means of industrial traffic!

Whilst waiting at Norton Junction for the water tank to fill, Christine decided on a rather unusual addition to the diet: fried egg, bacon and fried bread! Yummy!

When we arrived at Watford Locks we discovered that there would be quite a wait - the lockkeeper indicated about 90 minutes but it turned out to be almost two hours before we could make a start. In order to maximise traffic through the flight - which includes a staircase of three in the middle - he operates a batch policy: the more boats are waiting, the larger the batch. Today it was fairly quiet so the batches were three up and three down.



Just as our slot arrived, the rain started! For most of the next hour it was a very heavy downpour - necessitating a change of trousers afterwards. (It was such heavy rain that a photo of us entering the staircase was impossible, but above is one of a preceding boat!) Of course, as soon as we set off on the 20 mile summit pound, it dried out, sun even broke out before long. Crick Tunnel, the junction for the Welford Arm and Husbands Bosworth Tunnel were the principal landmarks along the way. Whilst we did not quite reach Foxton, it will only be a short run in the morning. If we start off at the same time as the first two days then we should be there by the time the flight opens.

First Full Day

It was light very early and we were both rather wakeful - at 4.30 it was already light enough to cruise, although the first boat was not until an hour later. After a fitful period we decided to make an early start, but take it slowly to get up! Eventually we set off around 7:20.

In comparison with the day before, it was a wonderful sunny Sunday morning. Milton Keynes has certainly treated the canal kindly, with leafy corridors in between the different housing areas.

After two hours we reached Wolverton where we knew that a large Tesco was just a few minutes walk away from the railway station bridge. It was yet only 9:30 but the doors open then, staffing the tills from the designated start of trading: 10:00! If we were anything judge by, this half hour shopping time does them no harm - with shoppers adding more items to their baskets as they wait for the checkouts!

Soon we reached the first lock of the day, the quite modest Cosgrove Lock. A further cruise and we arrived at Stoke Bruerne Bottom Lock. Alas we were to share the locks with another boat whose crew seemed to have no idea about operating locks, despite having been out for several days and it being their fifth year of such holidays. Christine was still answering questions about which part to operate next at the top of the flight. As a result it took a lot longer than expected to pass through the flight.



Stoke Bruerne is always a popular spot but is was especially busy today. Sounds of accordian music greeted us as we rose up in the top lock - there was a small boat rally this week end. In addition to boats moored all the way to the entrance of Blisworth Tunnel, there were various stalls. The Cheese Boat offered 'try before you buy' samples - alas only to the customers on the towpath side of the boat!

The tunnel took 45 minutes to navigate - it was busier that we have ever seen with up to 6 boats in each direction in the tunnel at any one time. Half way through we caught up with a slower boat - the queue behind closed in on us, obviously impatient with progress.



The pound from the tunnel is a long one. We soon passed Gayton Junction where the branch to Northampton takes off. Alas we then came upon a very slow boat which made no effort for the next two hours to allow us to pass! It even slowed to a snail's pace a hundred metres before any obstacle and seemed to be quite nervous of bridges! High House Bridge and they, at last, decide to moor. We could hear them asking the crew on another moored boat if there was a shop near the bridge! At this time on a Sunday?

As it was clear that we would not be able to pass Buckby Locks tonight, a mooring site below was needed. However, both the M1 and the main railway line are close by and nowhere is quiet. We opted for a spot just after Bridge 21 as being the least exposed, mooring just after 7. Although we are a little short of our possible target, it has been a long day, especially after the efforts of the past week.

Saturday Departure Day

Arrived at Leighton Buzzard boatyard by 1 o'clock and began unloading the numerous crates and boxes! It did not seem to take too long and, much to our surprise, there proved to be sufficient stowage room for it all!

Although we were ready by 2.30, we had to wait for our 'pilot' to show us all the routines for operating the boat - this took a little longer than usual as we needed to go through procedures that most crews do not need to know as they are done by the boatyard at the end of each week or fortnight hire.

Eventually we were actually off - just as we were winding (the boat was pointing the wrong direction) the heavens opened and for next hour we had some of the heaviest rain we have seen for some time! Just as well we had some waterproofs. Ten past four and we were on our way in the 'right' direction.



Very quickly we reached Leighton lock and then Soulbury Three Locks - a couple of novice boats were making their way up and so it took a little while. Christine had earlier 'complained' that last year (when we had the rest of the family with us, including the two girls) she had not had a chance to steer into and out of the locks - so this time she tackled all today's. (With no
difficulty, of course. I say this because at one lock a man said, "How long did it take you to get your wife to do that? Mine will not think about trying it" So at least chauvinism is alive and kicking on the canals!)

After Stoke Hammond Lock some prep for the evening meal was tackled but we still wanted to make as much progress as possible - this stretch is familiar from last year.

Fenny Stratford Lock is hardly a lock at all - built to control the flow of water after early problems with leakages, we understand.

By now the evening was quite pleasant as the canal meanders on the level through the leafier parts of Milton Keynes. However, spots of rain convinced us it was time to stop and we moored just beyond Peartree Bridge shortly before half past eight.

Although we are still somewhat in the manic phase of winding down, it feels good to have started - after about 9 months of planning.

Nearly There!

Packing the car was in interesting exercise although, in the end, all the planning and preparation of filling a series of plastic crates meant that it was straightforward and fitted fairly easily into the back of the car - no rear seats thought! Final shopping included collecting the meat order from Gary Dutton - hopefully the carefully boned and rolled shoulder of lamb will provide the usual tasty raost on Sunday.

We drove up from Cornwall to Oxford - staying overnight with Joanna, Adrian and Alice. The first part of the trip was quite horrendous - two accidents (first just 10 mins into journey and the second on Bodmin Moor held us up for 50 mins) and heavy rain with the inevitable spray.

After the Nailsea junction the traffic levels fell and we began, at last, to move qiuicker than 40 mph max. In the end we were only an hour later than planned!

We all went out for a meal at the Trout (a classic gastropub on the river bank) - Alice thoroughly enjoyed feeding bread to the ducks and later tried to hug a peacock! Food was pleasant (quality fish 'n chips!) and not as busy on the patio as it might have been if the weather was not so unkind! Still, large umbrellas and heaters keep nature at bay!

All we now have to do is make the last leg of the journey toLeighton Buzzard in the morning.

Final week

We are now into our final week of preparations! Hooray!

We have the spare bedroom back again and Christine is using the space to spread out more of the packing. I am checking through again that all the communications facilities are in place and we know how to operate them. So far so good.

My hospital check at the eye casualty was happily a negative outcome - nothing special untoward coould be seen after a very thorough examination. The only recommendation was to use artificial tears gel to compensate for possible reduced supply of natural tears (another part of the dreaded aging process!)

Roll on Friday when we set off for here on the first leg of the journey to Leighton Buzzard.

Nearly there

We spent much of last Saturday checking through all our stores for the journey - except for perishable foods.

Several large plastic crates have been arranged in order to sort out items into different categories.

The Canal Calculator is now quite stable and a substantial amount of data has been built up in the database. Apart from the most northerly canals to Ripon, all of the scanned mileage lists are in. The system can now print out route lists in mileage and timing terms. Crude maps are also provided, but only the mian junction points have been located using Multimap.