Another Change of Plan

Wow! A day with almost no rain!

Alas, we were woken early by the sound of a faulty carbon monoxide detector telling us that it was no longer working! We decided not to go back to take a longer look at the Anderton Lift in favour of making progress. Just after we had started a boat cast off right in front of us (without looking, we daresay) and continued to hold up traffic for the next couple of hours or more by proceeding slowly and unwilling to let us pass! It also tried to pass another boat coming the other way under a narrrow bridge. Interesting!



Eventually we arrived at Middlewich after passing through the 'salt' country. Generations of brine pumping have caused widespread subsidence and more flash lakes beside the canal which has had to be re-built in places to cope. A number of processing factories remain alongside the route.

At Wardle Junction, where we had intended to turn onto the Middlewich Branch en route to Llangollen, there was a long queue of boats (mostly hire boats just setting out). A quick review of options led us to decide to continue down the Trent and Mersey instead with the possibility of going up the Macclesfield and/or Caldon Canals.



We made reasonable progress up the Wheelock flight despite following two boats of limited experience - we were reluctant to moor early as it was a splendid sunny - even warm - evening. Finally, the evening maintenance!

Wet Bridgewater

The day began just a little differently: no locks but still plenty of rain and quite high winds. Before leaving Castlefield we took the boat across the junction to a water point to make sure that we were filled up before going any further.

The Bridgewater Canal is very straight and has no locks - for the most part the scenery has little of interest but the rain was a deterrent to idle sight seeing!



By early afternoon we reach Stockton Heath where our information indicated that there was a Sainsbury store - it turned out only to be a 'Local' version so we went across the bridge over the Manchester Ship Canal to a Morrisons store to stock up for the next few days.

The day gradually improved although the wind meant that the exposed sections were difficult to navigate. At one point we were fourth in a closely formed line of boats - it seemed that those in front had the notion that going slowly meant that they could steer better. Of course, the only result was that they found it more difficult and tacked to and fro.



Much of the latter part of the Bridgewater seemd to be lined with moored boats - one private mooring occupied three quarters of a mile. In some popular areas, the quantity of permanent mooring canalside is fast becoming a major detriment to cruising. Owners of boats that are little more than weekend cottages are often unhappy that boats actually move on the canal!

After passing Preston Brook Junction we merged into the Trent and Mersey with a stop lock that raises the water level just a few inches (to control the flow of water). Perhaps it was the eventual emergence of sunshine and perhaps as a narrow canal, but the canal seemed much more scenic and, despite two short delays at the tunnels (which have timed phases for use in each direction), the was a general inclination to continue cruising for later than usual!



Since so much time was spent inside today, someone thought that, dear reader, you might like to see what the boat looks like!

Moored at Anderton but will take a better look in the morning!

A Day Trip to Ancoats

The overnight stay at Castle Quay - or whatever name, it seems to depend where you look - was quite uneventful and we awoke to the sound of the estates staff cleaning the canalside stonework.

Our first task was to tackle the Rochdale Nine - a flight of broad locks rising out of the basin where we moored. We immediately discovered that there was so much water coming down the flight that the bottom gates could not be opened. About an hour later we were able to make a start, having run a lot of water down from the upper pounds. Progress was only possible up the flight by continuing to do the same.



This stretch of canal is crowded in by many tall buildings developed historically and recently alongside. In fact, several roads create short tunnels and some of the locks are underneath the foundations of the buildings above! Some of the bridges have very little spare headroom.



Two hours and we were at Ducie Street Junction which we thought was not a bad performance - even though we were working through with another boat. Here we left the Rochdale and joined the Ashton Canal where the locks are narrow - semed almost claustrophobic after the broad locks almost universally on the trip so far. However, they are much easier to operate and we made good progress up the first six.



However, we were then met by the crew coming down who reported that there was a broken lock just above (it had failed as they were passing through it) and that we would have to turn around and go back! (They were not so concerned as they had by then passed the problem!)

This time we had a better idea how operate the Rochdale Nine by running water down ahead of the boat and this time we took only an hour and 45 minutes. Mooring back almost in the same place in the canal basin brought our Day Trip to Ancoats to an end. Time to head for Wetherspoons and probably a meal out!

Wigan and Manchester

The day began as usual: rain and a flight of locks! In fact the rain was only very intermittent druing the morning as we worked the Wigan 21, taking just four minutes over the three hours to complete. We were helped by the fact that both lock keepers set most of the locks (filled and opened) for us and we met only one boat coming up. We felt quite satisfied with the time especially as a boat that came up last night when we were mooring said that they had taken all day!

The Leigh section of the Leeds and Liverpool, followed by the start of the Bridgewater Canal, is very direct and unremittingly plain. The land alongside the canal was former industrial and mining landscape - several large flashes indicate subsidence usually caused by salt mining. Later, the Astley area had deep coal mines as signified by the unusual sight of a winding head at a mining museum.



Most of the stretch is bordered by semi-mature woodland which has helped to improve the environment quickly but easily becomes boring!

The rain returned with a vengeance and, at times, tipped it down as hard as we have seen in the past three weeks. One result of the rain is that the canals are very full of water - in the Wigan flight this made for some delicate judgements when moving the boat between closely situated locks.



Gradually the countryside gave way to a more urban outlook as we apprached the various satellites of Manchester. We could see very little at the Barton Swing Aqueduct - as we passed over it the rain offered up a special downpour! As we turned at a junction towards Manchester itself, we passed very close to the huge Manchester United football ground, towering above us



By early evening sunshine emerged as we navigated into central Manchester. Eventually we found Jackson's Wharf, a much improved area at Castlefield Junction. A number of other boats were moored here so we felt that it was likely to be reasonably safe. (We shall see!) Certainly, the range of buildings and bridges, from old prnate cast ironwork to modern glass and concrete is quite remarkable and the basin itself has been pleasantly laid out. All we have to do now is to find a Weatherspoons pub for a wifi connection. (This took three goes!)

More Leeds & Liverpool

At 3 am we were awoken by unusual movements of the boat and a sense that there was someone on the outisde. Mike quickly looked outside to discover that two lads were making off up the towpath having pulled out both mooring spikes and pushed the boat into the middle of the canal! It was also the middle of a very heavy rainstorm.

Dressed only in his pyjamas, Mike started the engine and brought the boat alongside - by now Andrew was also out to help. One of the spikes was still attached to its mooring rope but the other was missing - presumably in the canal. There was then little else but to change out of rain-soaked pyjamas and return to sleep and look for a new spike during the day.



The 'proper' start to the day was the, by now ususal, combination of an immediate flight of locks in the pouring rain! We were, however, quite pleased with the efficiency of our operation leaving the flight just over an hour later.

At Johnson Hillock flight we moored to take on water whilst Christine went to the nearby boatyard in search of a new spike - successfully.



There were few other incidents in a pleasant day of cruising with long woodland stretches, despite being quite close to several towns. For about four hours in the middle of the day the sun shone and it was pleasantly warm - at least by comparison with recent climatic conditions.



By five o'clock we arrived at the top of the Wigan flight of 21 locks - which we will tackle tomorrow. At the moment, the party sent to suss out the pub (which seemed quite interesting in Nicholsons) has returned to report that it has seen better days but might be a possibility for an evening meal - there is little obvious opportunity in the sections immediately ahead of us.

Burnley and Blackburn

A day largely without interruptions from locks or swing bridges. However, we faced the Barrowford flight of seven locks, the first of the downhill section of the Leeds and Liverpool, as soon as we set off. As a result, seeing another boat pass our mooring, we quickly took the decision that this was a good time to cast off and join efforts through the flight.

This tactic proved worthwhile as the two men on the other boat were quite familiar with the need to work in an overlapping mode, setting one lock whilst the previous one is finishing emptying. We also benefitted from a lock keeper preparing the top five for us.

From here it was a pleasant cruise through mostly open countryside, although in many places the scenic view belies the fact the the motorway (which follows the canal route for several miles) was never far away and its noise was even more present! Gannow tunnel. outside Burnley, seemed quite modest by comparsion with others we have navigated!



The huge Burnley embankment still has views of terraced houses, once just back-to-backs with very basic facilities for the families of mill workers living on very poor wages. No doubt a closer inspection would show that most have now been much improved. A large Tesco store appeared at the end of the embankment and we paused here for milk and a few other items. On returning to the boat, Andrew proposed that we had lunch from Christine's latest soup (which she had prepared earlier) with the French bread just acquired from the supermarket - before setting off once more.

Apart from a few swing bridges (with an entirely different locking mechanism that combined the captive bolt lock which we had first encountered at the locks earlier in the day, with a windlass top raise a post a few inches from its recess - just to release the bridge!) it was straight cruising until we looked for a place to moor in Blackburn. Whilst we say 'straight', the canal actually follows a very winding contour route along this stretch and we were sometimes surprised to see landmarks passed ealrier in an entirely different direction. The anticipated Visitor Centre at Eanam Wharf (much lauded in Nicholsons) has clearly gone bust so we were reduced to a rather more modest mooring - at least we found somewhere with housing on either bank.



The towns/cities on this side of the Pennines have made much less progress in the development of the waterside and much of it is still either low grade industrial or derelict. Perhaps the local councils should take a trip to Leeds or Nottingham to see what is possible!

Pennines

There was a short half hour run from our overnight mooring spot to the bottom of the Gargrave flight of locks. These locks are quite heavy work and there were several other boats around which made progress slower than expected. Part way through the flight we photographed Bridge 172 which is probably the most northerly point of this journey. Most of the day was spent in delightful Pennine countryside.



The Banknewton flight followed almost immediately - it was taking so long that there was a unanimous crew vote for bacon butties which eventually turned into lunch. However, bribing the lock keeper with a sample very definitely improved his day (in the rain) and kept him 'on side'.

The next pound is over five miles long and is distinguished by being very winding - at several points we could look across a short field to see the canal running almost parallel. Double arched bridge does exactly what it says - probably the second arch was built on top of the original bridge when the road was developed to carry motor
traffic.



At the top of the Greenberfield flight of three a sign offering local ice cream was followed up with pleasing results! A little while later we came across a small boatyard with canal-side diesel supplies so, for the first time, we fully filled our fuel taank - last time the marina could only supply 20 litres.

Barnoldswick - according to an information panel - was where the Rolls Royce RB-211 engine was developed - which is the reason for the B in the name!

The next feature was Foulridge Tunnel - which we reached just minutes after the lights turned to red: passage is only allowed for 10 minutes each hour in order to allow for wide beam boats which cannot pass in the tunnel, even though it is possible to see right through the near mile long tunnel. Hence we had to wait to the next hour for a green light. Once through the tunnel we looked for a mooring spot as the next stretch runs through a series of towns, starting with Nelson. Also, another flight of locks awaits us first thing tomorrow!