Birmingham

We set off in good time on a day that was very sunny and warm, apart from a couple of the briefest of showers. After re-tracing back along the Stourbridge Town Arm to the main Storubridge Canal, we set about the Stourbridge Sixteen flight of locks. Although they were almost all empty and set for us, we were rather pleased to complete them in 2 hours 45 minutes.

Part way up we passed a huge glass bottle kiln, now a museum about glass production. Just above there is also a basin for a former warehouse which is now used for boatbuilding. Shortly after completing the flight we stopped for a much deserved early lunch - and took over an hour!



Next came the Delph Flight - originally known as the Nine Locks (still used locally) but two locks were later re-built as one so now it has 8 locks which we completed in 68 minutes! (We did have help at one lock where BW staff were carrying out repairs to the lock surround - not sure how many of the 'gang' were actually doing anything!)

We were now really beginning to enter the Birmingham conurbation - although the canal itself is generally lined with greenery, much better than when we came this way many years ago. Merryfield is a huge retail and office and includes a very smart central area built around the canal - wide and impressive - a good place to moor. However, after passing under the last bridge, the original style of canal returns quite abruptly.

After passing the turning to the Dudley Tunnel (which we decided not to try to explore at this stage in proceedings!) we took the Dudley No 2 Canal (No 1 was the section from the top of Delph to the tunnel) At Windmill End there was a pleasant nature reserve and country park surrounding the canal as it prepared itself for the Netherton Tunnel.

Netherton Tunnel is very wide - enough for boats to pass with a towpath (currently closed) on each side. After a while, we seemed to be able to see flashing lights. A little later we discovered that they marked a work boat moord in the tunnel. Further on there were another three (all together) similarly marked.



Once through the tunnel we were quickly onto the Birmingham Main Line - the later canal from Wolverhampton to Birmingham which is very straight and very wide. At various junctions with other loops and older canals, the remains of toll islands reduced the navigable width to that hardly wider than the boat. At many points along the line the towpath rises over a short bridge, indicating what was once a wharf or local loop line - this highlights just how busy and important this canal was to the prosperity of Birmingham and an industrial and commercial centre of England. Many of these bridges were built from cast iron shapes, showing how the original developers did not always lose their sense of good looks, even for what was essentially a functional necessity.



A huge motorway bridge provided a sharp contrast in design. Most of the BCN Main Line is in a deep cutting - work to provide good quality towpaths and to allow the natural ground coverage of the banks to develop means that far more people use the canal for walking, jogging and cycling than for boating. (In fact, we passed only three boats on the move all day!) The sad fact is that this huge asset for the conurbation is still not considered safe for overnight mooring, even allowing for the fact that a busy railway runs close by. Even some of the side arms could easily be converted into secure moorings. (Even being in a supposed secure mooring last night did not prevent one of our fenders from disappearing by morning!) We continued into the central
areawhere there are many boats moored overnight and a quick foray suggests that we will be spoilt for choice in looking for an eating place once this blog is finished!

Stourbridge

Immediately after setting off we descended a two-lock Botterham staircase before continuing down the Staffs and Worcs. We filled our water tank above Greensforge Lock and then entered an especially pretty stretch down to Stourton Junction.



At this point we turned right onto the Stourbridge Canal with an immediatre four lock flight to take us up to the Stourbridge level. Whilst the day had begun fresh and sunny, the rain returned within the hour - just after we had finished the Stourton flight there were rumbles of thunder, very black clouds and, inevitably, heavy rain. As a result we opted to moor up for lunch!



The afternoon was largely dry and, when the sun eventually came out, rather warm. At Wordsley Junction we took the arm into the town of Stourbridge where we had earlier been told that we could find a pump out service. Both the main Stourbridge line and the town arm are pleasant with remarkably clear water. The last part of the arm had a large number of water lilies.



We did indeed find the pump out at The Bonded Warehouse, a former canal building now restored as the headquarters of the Stourbridge Navigation Trust. When we inquired about moorings they offered us a secure location overnight. As the next part of the main Stourbridge Canal, once we have returned down the arm, immediately encounters the Stourbridge 16 flight of locks, we decided to take up the offer. The stretch above the flight may not be easy to find a mooring!

The town centre has plenty of shops, although we arrived not long before closing time. However, we did find a wifi hotspot, uploaded a few more pictures and updated our normal mailboxes - largely full of spam and junk!

Almost Wolverhampton

The day began bright and sunny and largely stayed that way un til we moored - although there were a few moments of concern when some very black clouds threatened from the horizon. Perhaps because of the weather, we are allowing ourselves a double allowance of pictures in this blog! There were also several interesting (at least to the afficianado!) features to note.

We noted yesterday the distinctive designs of each canal - another facet of the Staffs and Worcs are the bridge name plates - not just a number.



Whilst we have still not seen any kingfishers we did manage to capture a picture of a heron as we passed by. There do seem to be many more herons around than we remember from previous canal cruises. They usually fly off well before the boat arrives but on this occasion it glided in to the bank in front of us. In the context of a canal their wingspan makes them seem quite enormous!



South of Coven Heath the map indicates 'Very Narrow Cutting': it indeed was a correct description. Carved from stone it was, for about half a mile, little wider than a single boat, with just a couple of passing places.



Just after the cutting, a huge 'hedge' of mature trees lined the canal, separating it from an adjoining school grounds. Even more spectacular than the Great Ilex Hedge at Mount Edgcumbe.



After passing Autherley Junction, where the Shroppie starts its run up to Chester, and then Aldersley Junction, the bottom of the Wolverhampton 21, the southern part of the Staffs and Worcs begins its 31 lock journey down to the River Severn, but we are not going that far. (What, not another river? Not likely!)

Bratch Locks comprise a flight of three locks, separated by very short pounds - the gates of each lock are just 3 metres apart so they do not form a staircase. However, they do have functioning side ponds to preserve water. As a result not only do they require careful operation, it is not possible to pass boats in the opposite direction. A lock keeper is on duty during the summer season. When Christine went to operate the locks he introduced himself as a 'grumpy lock keeper' - he proved to be far from an exception to to our universal experience hitherto! He also told Christine that the Severn is indeed closed again owing to excess flood conditions.



Locks also have unusal overflow weirs - we saw at least three different designs in the section. It seems that they are designed to maximise the length of the controlling level, allowing the water to fall down into a central culvert. At one time they were rather dangerous as anything - or anybody - that falls into the weir quickly becomes trapped in culvert.

Penkridge and Gailey

Too late for yesterday's blog, but there was a splendid sunset last night - with what appeared to be a red sky. Alas, this folk wisdom does not always pan out and rain returned during the night, staying with us until the middle of the afternoon. In fact, the main part of the morning was especially wet - the sort of rain that gets into everything.



Christine began the day, before we set off, trying to take a photo of the rain on the water but a swan insisted in getting into the picture. Quickly it came too close for comfort and the photo-shoot was brought to a prompt conclusion!

After a brunch from a local (Potteries) delicacy - oatcake pancakes filled with bacon - a change into even more water proof gear was called for and progress was slightly less uncomfortable! Mike steered and Chrstine popped out for the occasional lock. Most of today's stretch had single locks, spaced out with perhaps a couple of miles as the longest distance between them.

We filled up with water at Great Haywood before turning off the Trent and Mersey onto the Staffs and Worcs. Almost immediately we crossed an aqueduct over the Trent which looked well above normal levels: if it is like this here, what will it be like further down where it joins the navigation? Christine became bored with being inside and insisted on steering despite the soaking rain. (Actually, it eased - slightly - once she took over!)



We crossed Tixall Broad, a much wider section of the canal which was built this way to satisfy the local landowner whose stately home (now no longer) was having its view interrupted by this new fangled development. Only the gatehouse-style structure remains. This piece of water is supposed to be a good place to spot kingfishers and photo them but, alas, the rain must have kept them indoors - Gerry please note!



A new canal and a new architecture. The most immediate and obvious change was in the shape of the bridges but also the locks are different. Many are a bit inconvenient as they do not have a footbridge at the tail of the lock. In days past we would happily jump from one mitre bottom gate to the other but in the rain and with our conviction eroded by the passage of time, it was two extra trips right around the lock to pass over the top gate. However, Mike was reminded of the need to be extra careful in the rain - pushing at a low balance beam with no foothold, he slipped and, whilst nothing else was injured, hw now has a sore neck from the bump to the ground.

Gailey marks the point at which the historic A5 Watling Street crosses over the canal - with a distinctive toll collectors round house. Soon after we moored in order avoid being too close to the creosote factory which will instead be our first delight tomorrow!

Resupply day

As we needed to make sure we reached Stone in good time to buy some more Calor gas (we were getting rather low on the second pair of bottles) we made a good start. Before long we reached Wedgwood and moored to take a look at the Visitor Centre and Shop.

We eventually decided against the tour (self-guided and only in the factory Monday to Thursday) - even the shop did not inspire Christine to find an addition to her wall of plates collection.



Continuing down the Trent and Mersey, progress through the locks was sometimes slow as there seemed to be a number of particularly inept boats about today! (It is the weekend) We had checked that Canal Cruising Co in Stone stocked the gas bottles but it was rather later than expected that we came alongside. It was their main changeover day for hire boats but they were still willing to help replenish our gas supplies.



Dear reader, you may wonder why such interest in Canal Cruising Company. It was from here that we first hired a canal boat forty years ago for our honeymoon. Back then, canal boats were rather more primitive by comparison with present day standards - not sure that the boatyard has changed much, however!

Unlike yesterday, it was a day without any rain and, by the afternoon it became quite warm and sunny - that is one of the reasons for including the photo of Canal Cruising - just to prove that w did have some blue skies!

Stone was also an important target - to replenish our larder! In fact we had run so low that we really did not have much for lunch, so, after cheese on rice biscuits, we headed into town. Stone is a pleasant, bustling small town with shops mostly along the short high street.



Another task was to update ourselves on wi-fi, knowing that the Post of Stone pub was a Wetherspoons. We also took the opportunity to upload a few more picture to the web album - but we have som many in the backlog that we are far from up-to-date!

Shopping over, we set off once more - the wonderful evening was too good to miss so we reheated the left-over from last night's corned beef hash for a late lunch (at 5 o'clock!) When we found a suitable mooring near Weston-on-Trent, we were quickly inspected by a sizeable herd of cows. Fortunately (as they were accompanied by rather too many flies) they soon lost interest in humans who brought them no food!

Wet Stoke

A THOROUGHLY wet day! (Did we make that clear? It rained heavily overnight and the only change during the day was whether it was large drops or fine ones!)

As a result, we did not get as far as we might otherwise have done and very few photos were taken! The morning was taken up with navigating the remaining part of the Caldon Canal and we moored for lunch in Hanley Park. There was little debate about taking over an hour break - a complete change of clothes was first necessary!



After filling with water at Etruria Junction we set off down the Stoke flight of five locks, most of which were particularly deep. There is now little evidence of the former role of the area as the world's leader in pottery production, although the road signs opn the main road alongside the canal has visitor signs to several factories. Almost all of the remains of bottle kilns and other historic production facilities have been removed, except that one or two are preserved and incorporated into new office or housing developments.



The canal passed close to a large old cemetery, now set out as a park before dropping underneath the railway. There was little point in continuing to cruise in the driving rain so we opted for a mooring site outside the towns - it would be a long way before we would lose the railway line but at least the main road is out of earshot.

Froghall and Leek

The Caldon Canal continued to be particularly rural but especially narrow and slow in places. Eventually we arrived at the terminus - or atleast as far as we could go since Poppy was just too large to pass through the tunnel.

Instead, we walked to Froghall Basin which has been remarkably well restored. Stimulated by a charitable donation, European and other public resources enabled the re-creation of the first lock on the Uttoxeter Canal - which originally continued the canal from here. (As a result, the mileposts give distance from Uttoxter as well as Etruria) Below the lock there were several mooring pontoons.



What puzzles us is: why? Very few boats will currently be able to pass through the tunnel - the boat in the lower basin looked larger that Poppy but is probably local and knows that the official profile guage is somewhat conservative. Nervertheless, spending such a large sum of money on a project which is currently effectively unusable seems bizarre.

After an ice cream, we re-traced our steps along the canal back to the junction with the Leek Branch. The builders of the Caldon Canal originally intended this branch to be simply a feeder, bringing vital water supplies to the main canal. However, the dignataries of Leek demanded that it be made navigable so that the silk trade based in the town could have better access to wider markets.



Close to the end of the branch is a short tunnel which was re-opened in 1985 - it has a rather unusual profile. We moored at the last winding point and walked to the very end which is where there was an aqueduct over the River Chrurnet. The last half mile has long been filled in and now an indistrial estate occupies the position.



Once again we turned around to track back the way we came, continuing until we were close to Endon (of the non-farm shop) for a night mooring - actually, the call of a chilli on the cooker was a persuasive factor!