Royal Leamington Spa

Lack of a mobile signal meant that we could not have filed a blog yesterday - even if we had had the energy (which we did not!) We planned to shop in Leamington Spa today and so left the upload until we could find the listed Wetherspoons which we eventually managed mid afternoon.
The morning involved just a couple of locks as we cruised past Warwick, crossing the River Avon at one point which was very evidently swollen with the rain - more in a moment.

We moored near the centre of Leamington and set off with rucksacks to track down some good supplies. Soon we could see the main bridge in the distance, lined with crowds. When we reached the bridge (over the Avon) it was obvious what was the attraction: the FLOODS. By the bridge is the old Pump Room where we expected to find the Tourist Information Centre. Alas it, and the library, were closed because of a threat of flooding! The adjacent park which normally borders the river and is a pleasant spot in summer was under water. A nearby street was closed as it was impassable.



We completed the specialist shopping - butcher, baker and greengrocer - and by then we were carrying so much that we returned to the boat before going to a supermarket.

By the time we reached the town centre for the second time, the flood level was evidently much higher and a second park was now flooded and a footbridge closed as its safety was threatened by the water.



When we returned again to the boat - after visiting Tesco and Wetherspoons - we found that it had been broken into. A small window had been removed and few items stolen: an IPAQ (useless without the connecting cables) and an old digital camera which we had brought as a spare but not the better mobile phone or CD players. We reported the incident to the police but they were so tied up with monitoring the floods that they could only record the report and expect to ring us perhaps on Monday - or later!

After another four locks, spread out over a couple of miles, we decided to moor so that we could reach a sensible meeting point with the Oxford Crew tomorrow.

Hatton

Both the weather forecast and Nicholsons Guide proved correct predictors for the day: very wet and lots of locks! We began, in heavy rain, to complete the Lapworth flight - there were sixteeen locks remaining, including the last one on the link arm that connects to the Grand Union. We met quite a few boats coming up, presumably those that arrived at yesterday's stoppage after the closure time.

In any event, we made good progress down the flight and watered at the junction. By now, the rain was definitely in the torrential class as described later on the news - the heaviest yet for extended rain; we have seen heavier rainfall but only as shorter showers. There were just over four miles to navigate before the famous (infamous?) Hatton flight. Mike steered whilst Christine dried out and prepared for the inevitable clothing change. Shortly after 1 o'clock, Hatton arrived and we opted for a long lunch break. A complete strip change was needed for Mike after the hour's soaking!



We deliberately gave ourselves a three hour long break - hoping that the rain might lose some of its ferocity by mid afternoon. The plan was then to continue later into the evening, so whilst Christine snoozed, Mike prepared the evening meal. (Actually, he snoozed a little and read as well, but we don't admit that!)

4:20 and the rain had abated to a drizzle so we set off to the Hatton flight, with its distinctive sluice mechanisms. We discovered that these were very hard to work - Christine could barely turn the windlass - each taking 20 - 23 turns to open fully. However, they must be very large as we also discovered that it was really only necessary to use one of the two at each end, especially where they are close together and then there is time to set the next lock.



A boat had come up the flight shortly before we set off and so we were hopeful that the flight might be set for us. However, by the fourth lock they were all empty so they must have passed probably the only other boat using the flight today at that point. This, of course, meant that each lock had to be filled before we could go down. In working out an efficient operation, it turned out that using only one sluice meant that the boat was easier for Christine to control in the locks (by the way, we should have pointed out that at this flight we returned to the larger double width locks) and she soon became very efficient at controlling the boat by rope as it started its descent and whilst waiting at the tail for the next lock to open.


After about two hours, heavier rain returned but by now it was obvious that the water levels were rising distinctly in the flight. With five locks to go, the locks were already full for us (they should have been empty like those preceding) So much water was coming down that it flowed over the top of the gate. Our relief at not having to fill the locks was short lived as by the next lock the water was coming over the gate so fast that even one of the Hatton sluices was not enough to empty the lock enough to open the tail gate and both were needed. We had not met a single boat coming up the entrei flight.



Nevertheless, by six minutes past eight o'clock were were finally through - that is 21 locks in 3 hours 36 minutes at just 10 minutes per lock! We felt that our stiffness as we attempted to complete the tasks of mooring, checking the engine, sorting out mountains of wet clothes and finalising the evening meal was entirely justified! Tomorrow had better be easier!

Out of Birmingham

After filing the blog last night, we went to explore the central Birmingham area, especially Bridley Wharf. One of the information panels showed a picture of how Gas Street basin looked in the early 1970's - our first experience was even earlier! We can certainly vouch for how run down it looked back then.

After checking out quite a number of eateries, we opted for a Japanese restaurant - which turned out to be rather interesting, if only for the entertainment value! None of the eating places were particularly busy but we were grouped with a party of four women celebrating two birthdays and two men in the city on business. The chef cooks the food in front of the guests. We took the 'eight course chef special on the basis that we did not know enough to make any better choices! However, we lacked nothing - at least in quantity. All in all it was a pleasant evening and was a change from pub grub which has been the only form of eating
off-boat that we have so far managed.



We also changed our plans for the next section of the route - if only to avoid having to start the day with two large flights of locks! Instead, we too the Worcs and Birmingham route followed by the north Stratford. This gave us around 15 lock-free miles! The section out of Birmingham was initially rather pleasant as the canal was bordered on both sides by trees and shrubs. However, after passing the Cadbury factory at Bourneville there was little to disguise the nature of the immediate environs. Even so, the canal is generally much cleaner than we remembered it.



The Stratford Canal is much narrower and progress slower, not helped by the number of craft coming the other way. Eventually we discovered why: Lock 8 at Lapworth was to be closed at 2.30 for the rest of the evening for emergency repairs. We then realised that this two day stoppage was actually in the stoppage list but, with the change of route, we had not spotted it! Still, it was just as well, otherwise we would have stretched oursleves to get there in time.



After completing the first four locks there is a slightly longer pound where we found a good overnight mooring. Only one other boat was here, slightly to our surprise. Then we wandered down to see the work in progress. Yesterday they had fitted a new balance beam, to the top gate and today they were replacing the cill (a piece of wood that makes the seal with the gate at the bottom of the lock entrance) As we arrived they were just starting to replace the gate. It was quite intriguing to see how they could manouvre such a large weight quite delicately into place.

Birmingham

We set off in good time on a day that was very sunny and warm, apart from a couple of the briefest of showers. After re-tracing back along the Stourbridge Town Arm to the main Storubridge Canal, we set about the Stourbridge Sixteen flight of locks. Although they were almost all empty and set for us, we were rather pleased to complete them in 2 hours 45 minutes.

Part way up we passed a huge glass bottle kiln, now a museum about glass production. Just above there is also a basin for a former warehouse which is now used for boatbuilding. Shortly after completing the flight we stopped for a much deserved early lunch - and took over an hour!



Next came the Delph Flight - originally known as the Nine Locks (still used locally) but two locks were later re-built as one so now it has 8 locks which we completed in 68 minutes! (We did have help at one lock where BW staff were carrying out repairs to the lock surround - not sure how many of the 'gang' were actually doing anything!)

We were now really beginning to enter the Birmingham conurbation - although the canal itself is generally lined with greenery, much better than when we came this way many years ago. Merryfield is a huge retail and office and includes a very smart central area built around the canal - wide and impressive - a good place to moor. However, after passing under the last bridge, the original style of canal returns quite abruptly.

After passing the turning to the Dudley Tunnel (which we decided not to try to explore at this stage in proceedings!) we took the Dudley No 2 Canal (No 1 was the section from the top of Delph to the tunnel) At Windmill End there was a pleasant nature reserve and country park surrounding the canal as it prepared itself for the Netherton Tunnel.

Netherton Tunnel is very wide - enough for boats to pass with a towpath (currently closed) on each side. After a while, we seemed to be able to see flashing lights. A little later we discovered that they marked a work boat moord in the tunnel. Further on there were another three (all together) similarly marked.



Once through the tunnel we were quickly onto the Birmingham Main Line - the later canal from Wolverhampton to Birmingham which is very straight and very wide. At various junctions with other loops and older canals, the remains of toll islands reduced the navigable width to that hardly wider than the boat. At many points along the line the towpath rises over a short bridge, indicating what was once a wharf or local loop line - this highlights just how busy and important this canal was to the prosperity of Birmingham and an industrial and commercial centre of England. Many of these bridges were built from cast iron shapes, showing how the original developers did not always lose their sense of good looks, even for what was essentially a functional necessity.



A huge motorway bridge provided a sharp contrast in design. Most of the BCN Main Line is in a deep cutting - work to provide good quality towpaths and to allow the natural ground coverage of the banks to develop means that far more people use the canal for walking, jogging and cycling than for boating. (In fact, we passed only three boats on the move all day!) The sad fact is that this huge asset for the conurbation is still not considered safe for overnight mooring, even allowing for the fact that a busy railway runs close by. Even some of the side arms could easily be converted into secure moorings. (Even being in a supposed secure mooring last night did not prevent one of our fenders from disappearing by morning!) We continued into the central
areawhere there are many boats moored overnight and a quick foray suggests that we will be spoilt for choice in looking for an eating place once this blog is finished!

Stourbridge

Immediately after setting off we descended a two-lock Botterham staircase before continuing down the Staffs and Worcs. We filled our water tank above Greensforge Lock and then entered an especially pretty stretch down to Stourton Junction.



At this point we turned right onto the Stourbridge Canal with an immediatre four lock flight to take us up to the Stourbridge level. Whilst the day had begun fresh and sunny, the rain returned within the hour - just after we had finished the Stourton flight there were rumbles of thunder, very black clouds and, inevitably, heavy rain. As a result we opted to moor up for lunch!



The afternoon was largely dry and, when the sun eventually came out, rather warm. At Wordsley Junction we took the arm into the town of Stourbridge where we had earlier been told that we could find a pump out service. Both the main Stourbridge line and the town arm are pleasant with remarkably clear water. The last part of the arm had a large number of water lilies.



We did indeed find the pump out at The Bonded Warehouse, a former canal building now restored as the headquarters of the Stourbridge Navigation Trust. When we inquired about moorings they offered us a secure location overnight. As the next part of the main Stourbridge Canal, once we have returned down the arm, immediately encounters the Stourbridge 16 flight of locks, we decided to take up the offer. The stretch above the flight may not be easy to find a mooring!

The town centre has plenty of shops, although we arrived not long before closing time. However, we did find a wifi hotspot, uploaded a few more pictures and updated our normal mailboxes - largely full of spam and junk!

Almost Wolverhampton

The day began bright and sunny and largely stayed that way un til we moored - although there were a few moments of concern when some very black clouds threatened from the horizon. Perhaps because of the weather, we are allowing ourselves a double allowance of pictures in this blog! There were also several interesting (at least to the afficianado!) features to note.

We noted yesterday the distinctive designs of each canal - another facet of the Staffs and Worcs are the bridge name plates - not just a number.



Whilst we have still not seen any kingfishers we did manage to capture a picture of a heron as we passed by. There do seem to be many more herons around than we remember from previous canal cruises. They usually fly off well before the boat arrives but on this occasion it glided in to the bank in front of us. In the context of a canal their wingspan makes them seem quite enormous!



South of Coven Heath the map indicates 'Very Narrow Cutting': it indeed was a correct description. Carved from stone it was, for about half a mile, little wider than a single boat, with just a couple of passing places.



Just after the cutting, a huge 'hedge' of mature trees lined the canal, separating it from an adjoining school grounds. Even more spectacular than the Great Ilex Hedge at Mount Edgcumbe.



After passing Autherley Junction, where the Shroppie starts its run up to Chester, and then Aldersley Junction, the bottom of the Wolverhampton 21, the southern part of the Staffs and Worcs begins its 31 lock journey down to the River Severn, but we are not going that far. (What, not another river? Not likely!)

Bratch Locks comprise a flight of three locks, separated by very short pounds - the gates of each lock are just 3 metres apart so they do not form a staircase. However, they do have functioning side ponds to preserve water. As a result not only do they require careful operation, it is not possible to pass boats in the opposite direction. A lock keeper is on duty during the summer season. When Christine went to operate the locks he introduced himself as a 'grumpy lock keeper' - he proved to be far from an exception to to our universal experience hitherto! He also told Christine that the Severn is indeed closed again owing to excess flood conditions.



Locks also have unusal overflow weirs - we saw at least three different designs in the section. It seems that they are designed to maximise the length of the controlling level, allowing the water to fall down into a central culvert. At one time they were rather dangerous as anything - or anybody - that falls into the weir quickly becomes trapped in culvert.

Penkridge and Gailey

Too late for yesterday's blog, but there was a splendid sunset last night - with what appeared to be a red sky. Alas, this folk wisdom does not always pan out and rain returned during the night, staying with us until the middle of the afternoon. In fact, the main part of the morning was especially wet - the sort of rain that gets into everything.



Christine began the day, before we set off, trying to take a photo of the rain on the water but a swan insisted in getting into the picture. Quickly it came too close for comfort and the photo-shoot was brought to a prompt conclusion!

After a brunch from a local (Potteries) delicacy - oatcake pancakes filled with bacon - a change into even more water proof gear was called for and progress was slightly less uncomfortable! Mike steered and Chrstine popped out for the occasional lock. Most of today's stretch had single locks, spaced out with perhaps a couple of miles as the longest distance between them.

We filled up with water at Great Haywood before turning off the Trent and Mersey onto the Staffs and Worcs. Almost immediately we crossed an aqueduct over the Trent which looked well above normal levels: if it is like this here, what will it be like further down where it joins the navigation? Christine became bored with being inside and insisted on steering despite the soaking rain. (Actually, it eased - slightly - once she took over!)



We crossed Tixall Broad, a much wider section of the canal which was built this way to satisfy the local landowner whose stately home (now no longer) was having its view interrupted by this new fangled development. Only the gatehouse-style structure remains. This piece of water is supposed to be a good place to spot kingfishers and photo them but, alas, the rain must have kept them indoors - Gerry please note!



A new canal and a new architecture. The most immediate and obvious change was in the shape of the bridges but also the locks are different. Many are a bit inconvenient as they do not have a footbridge at the tail of the lock. In days past we would happily jump from one mitre bottom gate to the other but in the rain and with our conviction eroded by the passage of time, it was two extra trips right around the lock to pass over the top gate. However, Mike was reminded of the need to be extra careful in the rain - pushing at a low balance beam with no foothold, he slipped and, whilst nothing else was injured, hw now has a sore neck from the bump to the ground.

Gailey marks the point at which the historic A5 Watling Street crosses over the canal - with a distinctive toll collectors round house. Soon after we moored in order avoid being too close to the creosote factory which will instead be our first delight tomorrow!